South African Wine: competing against the classics with its unbeatable value
The wine industry in South Africa has a long and captivating past, varied soils and climates, and a rising reputation for making top-notch wines. However, is it truly capitalizing on its complete possibilities in terms of being recognized in the global market? In our recent evaluation held in Stellenbosch, we brought together our panel of judges from the hospitality and retail sectors - Maggie Macpherson, Samantha Glanfield, and Luke Harbor, along with the leading judge, Dirceu Vianna Junior, who is a Master of Wine. We were keen to hear their professional insights on what lies ahead for South African wine.
While evaluating the wines, our judges were completely engrossed in the diverse offerings of South Africa. They were impressed by the remarkable consistency of quality across different regions and appreciated the unique characteristics each region brought to the table. They described the judging process as a delightful treasure hunt. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, a member of IWSC's Judging Committee overseeing all panels, excitedly shared his enthusiasm, stating, "Every aspect of the judging was noteworthy, from the various grape varieties to the sense of terroir. South Africa has truly created an exciting wine scene."
In terms of grape varieties, there was an equal distribution of gold medals between red and white wines. Our judges were pleasantly surprised by the white grapes, particularly Chardonnay. Chardonnay is not typically associated with South African wines, but this perception might change in the future as it received the majority of gold medals for single-varietal wines. Maggie Macpherson, Group Buyer at Jeroboams, praised the impressive selection of Chardonnay wines from South Africa, stating that it wasn't a grape she had previously considered but now sees its potential. With prices of classic wines from traditional wine regions increasing, Luke Harbor, Head of Wine at The PIG Hotels, used the judging session as an opportunity to find replacements for these expensive classics and offer better value on his wine lists. Luke expressed his satisfaction with the Chardonnay examples he tasted, considering them as suitable alternatives to the overpriced classics.
Our judges were particularly impressed by the Sauvignon Blanc grape variety. Luke described the use of oak in these wines as excellent, with different toasting methods and expressions of oak being showcased. Samantha Glanfield, Senior Buyer for Premium Wine at Sainsbury's, was pleasantly surprised by the range of aged Sauvignons entered. She enjoyed the opportunity to taste wines that had been aged for three, four, or five years and witness their evolution. The judges were also intrigued by the quality of Sauvignon and Semillon blends, with one exceptional example, Distell Limited's Durbanville Hills The Tangram White Blend 2020, earning a gold medal.
The panel of judges were taken by surprise when they realized that Chenin Blanc, which is often regarded as South Africa's most prominent white grape, did not dominate the number of entries. Despite not meeting their expectations in terms of quantity, the judges discovered that the Chenin Blancs that were submitted showcased "impressive quality and a wide range of styles, from unoaked to lusciously rich," as Samantha pointed out. Maggie expressed her desire for more South African producers to showcase their Chenin Blanc wines, as it is a grape variety that is gaining popularity and understanding in the UK. She urged them to submit more of these wines for judging. Luke echoed Maggie's sentiment, noting that Chenin Blanc is an incredibly versatile grape that is valuable to the on-trade sector. It offers options at all levels of the wine list, from affordable to premium selections. Two standout Chenins caught the attention of the judges and were both awarded gold medals: Koelenhof Wynkelder's Stellenbosch 1679 Single Vineyard Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2022 and Perdeberg Wines' The Dry Land Collection Courageous Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2022.
The judges were very impressed with Pinotage, which is a unique grape variety in South Africa that is a blend of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Junior, who oversees all the judging panels, noticed the improvement in quality over the past few years. He believes that winemakers are taking Pinotage seriously by reducing the yield, using less oak, and being more careful in their winemaking process. Luke, who was not as familiar with Pinotage before the judging, was excited by what he experienced in South Africa. He explained that sommeliers are always on the lookout for new and interesting grape varieties, and Pinotage fits that description perfectly. Samantha, who specializes in off-trade sales, mentioned that Pinotage may not be widely known among supermarket customers, but there are some excellent commercial styles available. She believes that Pinotage can help differentiate South African wines from the rest of the world. One gold medal was awarded to an outstanding Pinotage called Neethlingshof Estate, The Owl Post Pinotage 2021.
When our three judges explored red varieties beyond South Africa's native grapes, they each had different views on the most impressive one. After the evaluation, Luke shared, "I was captivated by the assortment of Syrah wines. I believe Syrah has immense potential in South Africa. Tasting numerous exceptional examples was truly captivating." Boekenhoutskloof, The Wolftrap Red 2022, a blend featuring Syrah, was awarded a gold medal.
Samantha expressed her preference for the Bordeaux blends, mentioning that she found the crispness in certain wines to be notable and believed that they possessed a distinct quality that could rival other wines worldwide. Two exceptional Bordeaux blends, namely Constantia Glen, Five 2020 and Quoin Rock, Red Blend 2020, were honored with gold medals.
At long last, Maggie incorporated Cinsault into the combination, relishing the distinct wines made solely from this grape as well as the blends featuring Cinsault. "I believe it has discovered its rightful place in South Africa. It truly epitomizes the type of wine I would prefer to enjoy in a warm climate—crisp, refreshing, and perfect for chilling. That's the essence of South Africa to me." Two separate instances of Cinsault wines, namely Darling Cellars' Old Bush Vines Cinsaut 2020 and Stellenzicht Wines' Thunderstone Red 2019, were honored with silver medals.
The in-situ judgings conducted by the IWSC provide international judges with the opportunity to fully immerse themselves in the wine culture, history, and tradition of a particular country. These judges are selected based on their previous knowledge of the country's wines and are able to offer insights on how these wines are perceived in their native markets. Maggie expressed her belief that South Africa is still in the process of establishing its identity in the wine world. However, the fact that they are able to impress with their classic varieties, which are found worldwide, speaks volumes about South Africa's potential. The quality of their wines is consistently improving, enabling them to compete on an international level. Maggie also emphasized the exceptional value for money that South African wines provide, stating that it is difficult to find better value elsewhere. Samantha, who views the wine scene from the perspective of a supermarket, echoed a similar sentiment. She believes that what South Africa offers is consistency and affordability. However, she also acknowledged the challenge of changing the perception that South Africa produces mainly entry to mid-tier wines in the mass market of the UK. Despite the high quality wines available, it is difficult to persuade customers to trade up within the South African wine category.
According to Maggie, South Africa's growth is great, but it still requires a personal approach when selling premium products off-trade. Samantha suggested that South African producers can overcome this challenge by highlighting their country's rich culture and history, showcasing the people involved in making their wines, and conveying those stories to customers. Luke, on the other hand, took a different perspective from the on-trade sector, acknowledging that South Africa may not have the same premium appeal but is an exciting place for unique grape varieties, winemaking techniques, and different styles. He also mentioned the opportunity for value in categories where wines have become too expensive, citing Burgundy as an example. Luke sees the potential to offer alternative value options from South Africa that can still impress guests while also providing fun and enjoyment.
The main judge, Junior, stated: "The absolute magnificence of this location and its capacity to produce wines with incredible fullness due to the abundance of sunlight, yet still maintain a traditional structure reminiscent of old-world wines, is truly remarkable. South Africa exhibits truly astounding stylistic variation. When combined with the fascinating narratives of its people, the commendable old vine project, and their commitment to sustainability, I firmly believe that South Africa is currently in an excellent position. However, I also firmly believe that the future holds even greater potential for this remarkable country."
