Five important sustainable fashion trends

Sustainability has become quite popular in the fashion industry lately. This is especially due to the buying power of Gen Z, the newest generation. Many surveys, such as Deloitte's Global 2022 Gen Z & Millennial Survey and their 'How consumers are embracing sustainability' report, Forbes' 'Gen Z and environmental issues' article, and our own 'Tomorrow's World' report, have shown that Gen Z is particularly concerned about climate change.

In two years from now, the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action revised its promises. Those who signed it are now committed to reducing their emissions by half by the year 2030. This marks a 20% increase since 2018. Popular brands that have pledged to reach this objective are Burberry, Ralph Lauren and Stella McCartney.

However, although consumers have expressed their interest and some brands have made promises to prioritize the environment, the fashion industry seems to be moving at a sluggish pace.

In this section, we present five sustainable patterns that showcase the retail sector's commitment to the environmental predicament and its creative solutions to tackle it.

In the past ten years, there has been a surge in interest towards pre-owned, vintage and retro fashion. Predictions indicate that this trend is still on the rise and the resale industry is expanding faster than regular retail, projecting to reach a value of $84 billion by 2030. The spike in demand for used clothing may be attributed to younger consumers becoming more aware of the environmental issues caused by the fashion industry. Shopping second-hand is a sustainable shopping approach that reduces the environmental consequences of garment production by prolonging the lifespan of clothing.

Apps that cater to fashion enthusiasts like Thrift, Depop, Vinted and Vestiaire Collective have been gaining momentum, thanks to the resurgence of past fashion trends (like the Y2K revival) as well as a growing interest in making eco-friendly purchases. Meanwhile, established resale apps such as eBay, Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree have maintained their popularity. Many of these platforms not only allow buyers and sellers to conduct transactions, but also take measures to ensure the quality of items being sold. As a result, customers keep coming back for more.

A bleak forecast for the economy is contributing to the growth of the second-hand market. People are cutting back on spending for non-essential items and seeking out more affordable options. The appeal of items that are 'previously owned but in excellent condition' is hard to resist.

For companies, this trend provides a strategic choice - to enter the second-hand market and benefit from its growth (without decreasing sales of new items) or to mainly sell new goods (while managing sustainability in other ways). For high-end brands, this decision may look different than for a fast fashion retailer. Understanding customer preferences and maintaining a clear brand image are crucial to ensure that any strategy is effective and aligns with the brand's values. Some brands, such as Selfridges, have embraced the concept of selling pre-loved items through their "Reselfridges" range to cater to customers who may not have interacted with them otherwise. Selfridges' service goes further than that. If you decide to sell your pre-loved items to them, Selfridges will give you credit to buy new products, which can attract shoppers who usually would not visit a high-end brand. Moreover, this allows Selfridges to regulate this second-hand market instead of competing against it.

If purchasing used items is not a viable option, could renting be an alternative solution?

Many young people are now sporting fancy designer clothes without having to purchase them. This craze is particularly visible during Fashion Weeks which took place in London, Milan, and New York in February of 2023. Social media influencers and famous individuals opted to rent or borrow designer outfits so they could attend high-end runway events and other gatherings.

Recently, there has been a rise in fashion rental subscription platforms that prioritize sharing clothing rather than owning. Rent the Runway, Hurr, By Rotation, and My Wardrobe HQ are examples of online platforms that allow consumers who value affordability and the environment to keep up with fashion trends while maintaining their sustainable habits. The rental market gaining popularity is evident in how rental options are now integrated on retailer websites, including Selfridges and Harrods, and even popular brands like H&M, M&S, and John Lewis have started offering rental options instead of purchase.

The popularity of rental fashion among consumers has been demonstrated due to its affordability, making it an attractive choice for sustainability-conscious individuals.

Is leasing fashion really good for the environment? According to a recent examination conducted by LUT University, it might not be as sustainable as we think. The study reveals that there could be a large-scale environmental impact as renting clothes generates carbon dioxide emissions while transporting the garments from the provider to the borrower. However, some experts have questioned the research, particularly when considering the carbon emissions linked to returning items purchased over the internet.

Paying a relatively cheap rental fee to wear an outfit for a special event can be compared to an operational expense, while purchasing a brand new outfit involves a much larger capital expense - this is similar to business models found in the technology sector such as software-as-a-service or anything-as-a-service, which have been very successful and profitable. Renting clothes could potentially result in lower supply chain costs and potentially improve supply chain standards as there is less pressure to produce mass quantities while maintaining profit margins.

Despite the influence of younger consumers on the fashion industry's adoption of sustainable practices, a new trend in sustainability has emerged that is ironically called "de-influencing."

A new trend called "De-influencing" has surfaced on TikTok wherein creators give their audience advice on what items are not actually worth buying, even if they are deemed to be a "holy-grail" or have gone viral.

This is a group of people who can turn anything into a popular style, also known as a "core". You can search for proof on Pinterest by looking up "bloke-core", "cottage-core", "ballet-core", and even "indie-sleaze". It almost seems like the next logical step for a generation that has so many styles available to them would be to simply stop consuming altogether. This would be the most sustainable option.

It's not unexpected that this has happened, it appears to be an opposing reaction to the widespread occurrence of "hauls". With the emergence of influencers and the availability of affordable yet fashionable fast fashion, it has become common to shop in large amounts. Nevertheless, the latest online hauls have been met with criticism from viewers who are becoming more and more tired of the unsustainable pattern of consumption.

The inquiry is if "de-influencing" will remain as a permanent practice or if it's just a passing fad.

It's evident that the concept of "de-influencing" serves another objective, which is to steer buyers towards more affordable options known as "dupes". While this approach may not be as environmentally friendly as avoiding purchases altogether, the growing prevalence of "dupes" within the fashion industry will undoubtedly drive brands to increase their efforts to safeguard their intellectual property rights.

At times, the solution may be found nearby - by fixing and renewing things that have deteriorated but still possess some usable features.

People who want to fix their old clothes and use them again have various choices. They can use specialized repair services like The Restory or Sojo that offer direct-to-consumer options. Sojo even goes the extra mile by sending their staff on bicycles to collect the goods, making them more environmentally friendly. Another option is to approach fashion brands like Jigsaw, Uniqlo, or Selfridges, which have now started providing their own repair services.

Recently, there has been an observable shift towards repair services within the outdoor clothing industry. Major brands like Rab, Patagonia and Cotswold Outdoor have all introduced repair services to their customers.

Patagonia is famous for its commitment to environmentalism, as evidenced by its recent statement that the planet is its top priority. Their new emphasis on repairing goods showcases this dedication. Customers can request traditional repairs through the online platform or use DIY videos to learn how to repair items themselves at home. This simplifies the repair process and reduces costs for customers. Cotswold Outdoor has also shown its understanding of the environment by offering repair and wash services. This is especially helpful for those who have worn their items in various conditions and may have otherwise thrown them away due to dirtiness.

Fixing clothes is not a magic solution to the problem of fast fashion and reckless buying. It costs money to have an item repaired, such as paying for shipping, and individuals who own many low-cost clothes that they want to utilize for just one season may not think it's worth the effort to mend them.

Nonetheless, there is a noticeable growth and advancement in the repair sector, and its eventual impact on a massive level is becoming more apparent. It is irrefutable that the repair movement offers a viable option for clients who possess vintage or costly possessions that they cannot part with.

If you find it difficult to fix an item that you cherish but also don't want to dispose of it completely, there's an alternative solution: 'upcycling'. This method involves reusing the fabric and elements of an old piece of clothing to craft a new garment in a creative manner.

Renovating old clothing through upcycling is one way to support a circular economy. By utilizing existing clothing materials, there is a reduction in the amount of garments that are sent to landfills annually. Additionally, this process helps to minimize the production of chemicals, water, and greenhouse gases that are typically generated during the creation of new fabrics.

Upcycling encourages creativity and opens up distinctive chances for emerging smaller brands to set themselves apart. One example is "Rubymoon," proudly standing as the planet's solitary "non-profit swimwear brand," that crafts exceptional swim and exercise clothes using solely discarded plastic bottles and fishing nets gathered from the oceans.

Larger companies are beginning to dabble in upcycling services too. Levi's, a popular denim brand, has introduced "RE/DONE", a service that produces new jeans using vintage denim exclusively. Levi's website reveals that this has prevented 158,000 vintage Levi's jeans from being dumped in landfills.

In a similar manner, Urban Outfitters, a retailer known for fast fashion, has started a clothing line named Urban Renewal. This clothing line consists of a selection of distinctive and aged clothes produced from re-discovered leftover fabrics or already existing garments.

By adopting inventive circular design techniques for excess fabric and textile waste, we can lower the environmental impact caused by the fashion and textile sector to a great extent. Furthermore, it can also help reduce costs, bringing benefits to both consumers and designers. This approach creates a favorable outcome for everyone involved, making it a win-win situation.

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