Scotland’s far north has already reached peak tourism

The northern part of the British Isles may not be as developed as Disneyland, but it is far from being a stagnant and underdeveloped area.

Looking for somewhere to avoid the crowds of tourists in the north of Scotland? In my opinion, the best option would be to head to the northern tip of Shetland. This is where the horizon becomes more rugged and the island of Muckle Flugga, made of shiny granite, battles against the North Sea.

The lighthouse situated in this location symbolizes the utmost point of the British Isles and when viewed from Unst's coast, it is always characterized as isolated, untamed, or a spiritual destination for individuals who desire seclusion. During my most recent visit, I was confronted with harsh gusts of wind assaulting my face, the sea was raging with forceful explosions and I was entirely by myself without any groups or organized tours. The only other inhabitants were the raucous gulls. I imagine they must have been puzzled as to why I was present in that location.

I want to bring up a topic that's been talked about lately. As you probably know, Lonely Planet recently included the "Far North of Scotland" in their annual Best in Travel list as one of the top 50 places to visit in 2024. Interestingly, the list highlights the area as a less-touristy destination, a place to escape the crowds of popular tourist spots like Edinburgh Castle, Loch Lomond, and Glencoe.

The publisher of the travel guide stated that only a small number of travelers are heading in the direction of the north.

Are you seeking solitude? Unless you opt to rent a private hot air balloon for an aerial view of the northern coast, you're unlikely to discover many uncrowded destinations. However, if you're fond of luxurious country house hotels, sea lochs, rivers teeming with salmon, and distilleries producing single malt whiskey, then this place may be worth a visit. Nevertheless, there's one key consideration to keep in mind.

It is important to be aware that the area is currently facing an overwhelming amount of tourists due to the extremely popular North Coast 500 that began in 2015. The speed at which it gained popularity is remarkable and has caused many negative consequences. Although it is not quite like Disneyland, it is far from being a quiet and untouched place.

Undoubtedly, in recent years, people have commonly thought that the far north Highlands suffer from an excess of traffic and difficulties for local residents. Just this summer, tourists behaved so badly that a community group criticized their behavior as "completely disgusting". With so many motorhomes clustering on the sides of roads, activists and government members are pushing to implement a charge for touring vehicles or a camera system that can identify license plates, in order to lighten the load on local resources.

I went to the northern part of Scotland last month, as part of my job as a journalist. I was there to review the Dornoch Station hotel, which had recently opened. The hotel is situated one hour north of Inverness and offers beautiful views of a golf course and the crashing waves. The company that owns the hotel, Marine & Lawn, is targeting visitors who are travelling along the popular North Coast 500 route.

The restaurant was packed, but the staff was nowhere to be seen, leaving the management to deal with a barrage of complaints from disgruntled customers (resulting in an uncomfortable checkout experience). On my way out, I overheard a couple who had waited over an hour for their dinner deciding to give up and head to the closest Tesco in Tain instead. As anyone in the hospitality industry knows, not everything goes according to plan during a hotel launch. Similarly, the situation didn't improve further up the road.

In this place, you can see the beautiful Dunrobin Castle, which is one of the biggest houses in Scotland. It gives off a fairy tale vibe, resembling a Cinderella castle. Lonely Planet recommends it as a must-see attraction in the area, but it was extremely crowded when I visited.

That day, lots of tourists crowded around the entrance of the building that had witch hat turrets. The bus that arrived was filled with Americans, and a group of Chinese visitors crowded into the indoor gallery rooms. By the way, this part of the coastline has become really popular with tourists and has reached its maximum point of tourism, even though the road called the North Coast 500 passes by the end of the driveway. Lonely Planet may have to update their recommendations!

I had another reason for visiting this time, which was to stay at the Royal Marine Brora. It's located farther up the road from the village of Golspie and was where I had the pleasure of meeting visitors from the Netherlands, France, and Vancouver Island, which is far away. All of them were fulfilling their dream of taking a trip along the North Coast 500 after many years of saving and waiting.

The Highland Coast Hotels company manages several charming lodgings along the way, such as those in Tongue and Kylesku. One of these properties is known for its quirky and eccentric style, which many visitors to Britain enjoy. For example, guests can indulge in a hearty Scottish breakfast while the hotel manager, Billy McKechnie, showcases his bagpipe skills on the front lawn. This may be entertaining for guests, but it doesn't quite fit with the idea of a peaceful and secluded coastline.

What does the hotel group think about this? According to CEO Guy Crawford, their goal is to attract more tourists during the low season from autumn to winter, rather than the summer. Additionally, they aim to generate more job opportunities in the hospitality industry for locals and their respective communities.

Of course, we understand that there are congested areas at certain times along the North Coast 500 route. However, our region is dedicated to encouraging responsible and eco-friendly tourism. Luckily, there are still parts of the region that are not as heavily affected by excessive tourism.

In the same way, the Scottish tourism organization VisitScotland is aware of the high levels of tourism that occur from the months of April to October in this region of the country that is considered to be less popular.

I had a chat with a representative who stated that the North Coast 500 has been instrumental in generating employment opportunities in various communities across the North Highlands. This road trip has also garnered more attention towards the region, leading to a substantial increase in tourist traffic, specifically to attractions situated along this circuit. Nonetheless, there are tons of remarkable places to explore outside the popular route. The objective of VisitScotland, in collaboration with other local stakeholders, is to motivate visitors to extend their stay, explore lesser-known spots, plan trips during off-peak seasons and fully experience the essence of this fascinating destination.

Nowadays, travel writers like myself have a crucial role in recommending and suggesting sustainable ways to explore places without causing problems like overtourism. However, we sometimes fall short in our efforts.

Lonely Planet deserves some credit for suggesting that tourists not only explore the coastline, but also venture into the interior of the country. It’s worth noting that these inland areas can be both wet and wonderful. Forsinard Flows Nature Reserve, for example, is a great place to relax with a cup of tea and a pair of binoculars while watching a wide variety of birds. Similarly, Flow Country’s marshy peatlands offer a unique hiking experience without the crowds. In fact, Flow Country is currently seeking to become a Unesco World Heritage site in the near future.

If you're intrigued by the idea, head up to the northern regions of Scotland. It's definitely worth considering. During the off-season, you can experience some enchanting encounters with majestic stags, gazing up at the sparkling night sky, trekking across rugged terrain, and savouring a warming drink by a crackling fire. It's an indulgence you won't regret.

If you're solely focused on admiring the rosy hues of summer sunsets and the stunning cerulean shades of the ocean on beach days, you may end up feeling frustrated stuck in traffic caused by motorhomes and campervans and not enjoying yourself at all. However, if this is not a concern for you, then you have nothing to worry about.