The Very Best Shows From Berlin Fashion Week
Berlin Fashion Week: Leather, Latex & Shorts
"Top Shows From Berlin Fashion Week July 2024"
Main Image: GmbH Spring/Summer 2025Photo by Harry Miller
Everyone has some ideas about fashion in Berlin (the city's style is so unique that even the word 'Berlin' is now used to describe it). A person sitting next to me at a very 'Berlin' fashion show - before they had only shown questionable slogan vests - said, "Many fashion brands in Europe are trying to emulate the style of 'Berlin'. Even Berlin itself is trying to be more 'Berlin'." This implies that it may be a bit clichéd, which is partly true. The city's fashion is influenced by the dark alleys and warehouses, but the red and black leather and latex looks amazing on the young, edgy locals. At the numerous afterparties, I found myself wishing to embody the 'Berlin' style a little more too.
The first day of Berlin Fashion Week was filled with a diverse group of designers thanks to the Reference Studio's Intervention platform. Mumi Haiati, the founder of the agency and curator of Intervention, carefully selected designers that represented various aspects of Berlin, from different age groups to design styles. Some of the featured designers included Shayne Oliver's Anonymous Group, GmbH, Lueder, and Dzhus. One common thread among them was their authenticity and focus on community. The event took place at Tempodrom, a historic venue with roots in music and culture dating back to 1980 when it began as a circus tent on Potsdamer Platz.
Experiencing Berlin over the course of five days is thrilling, with a sense that many of these brands are just beginning their journey. It reminds me of London a decade ago - a bit rebellious, anti-establishment, and pushing against the norm. Haiati shares this sentiment: “London had a unique, creative energy that was incredibly exciting. I'm happy to see Berlin embracing that now. It's a thrilling challenge to continue nurturing this energy and creating lasting opportunities for our designers.” Politicians are also supporting the growth of these designers, with initiatives like the Berlin Contemporary competition offering 25,000 euros for the top 16 show concepts. The level of support is impressive - other cities should take note.
Here are six of the top shows at Berlin Fashion Week 2024 that you won't want to miss.
Shayne Oliver is still as talented as ever. The fashion world was sad when his famous brand, Hood By Air, took a break in 2017 after making a big impact on fashion for over ten years. He worked for a few different brands like Helmut Lang and Diesel before starting Anonymous Club in 2020. This new project is a bit confusing, described as a 'collective studio' where he can work with others and not be the only leader. His latest work was shown at Tempodrom as part of Reference Studios’ Intervention II. Cool and stylish young people filled the circular auditorium for the show, excited for his second collection. Even though Shayne Oliver has been more quiet in the fashion world lately, everyone was eager to see more from him.
At the top music playlist of the week and an exclusive track from Kanye West, who reportedly threw a party for Oliver at Soho House Berlin later that night, the collection named Freudian Glitch: Fantasia 2024 featured a surrealistic interpretation of futuristic streetwear. A stooped and hooded outline was the main focus of the show. Without a clear neckline, this design blurred the line between contemporary and threatening, providing a sense of comfort and security with its soft material. Oliver's rebellious use of latex added a sinister touch.
Explore the inner workings with a visual story by Harry Miller right here.
Titled "Resistance Through Rituals," models walked through heavy rain on the slippery roof of Berlin's Tempodrom for GmbH's Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The collection honored the courageous communities that have come together in the face of recent political challenges, including queer communities facing right-wing authorities and immigrant artists facing censorship over their criticism of Israel's actions. GmbH co-founder Benjamin Alexander Huseby emphasized the importance of showcasing Berlin's culture and community. The collection featured tailored pieces with boxing hoods, bomber jackets, shorts with Muay Thai waistbands, and dresses with unique sleeves, reflecting a sense of readiness and determination inspired by the city's nightlife.
Check out the interview with Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Işık from GmbH on AnOther's website.
A big airplane always brings excitement and excitement. At Tempelhof Airport in Berlin, Julius Weissenborn and Johann Ehrhardt, winners of the Berlin Contemporary fashion show, presented a collection inspired by Amelia Earhart. They reimagined classic flight gear as a modern city uniform for both men and women. The designs were bold and provocative, reminiscent of old-school uniforms, and the models confidently strutted around a vintage fighter plane as if they were ready for battle. There were plenty of bomber jackets, accessorized with leather aviator caps, neckerchiefs, and high-waisted trousers. Leather trenches added a touch of city edge to the collection, reflecting the designers' roots in Haderlump. The music in the hangar only added to the intense atmosphere. While a tasseled corset may not be the most practical flying attire, Haderlump successfully merged street style with sky-high fashion, making a strong case for their unique vision.
SF1OG took a chance with their location this season. It was a bit of a drive to the historic Umspannwerk in Reinickendorf from central Berlin, making it difficult for attendees to go to other shows before or after. However, turning the old electrical substation into a lively marketplace with white stalls that matched the rugged interior was a unique and worthwhile experience. With the local rock band Golden Hours playing in the background, the models showcased a beautifully crafted collection of luxurious menswear in vibrant shades of pink, blue, and green. The use of various fabrics, including vintage and recycled materials like 19th-century linen, added an interesting texture to the pieces, reflecting the marketplace ambiance. The final all-white look featured a crochet vest, antique linen trousers, and a durag with a long train, showcasing the level of skill and creativity in the collection. Overall, this show was a standout addition to the modern fashion scene in Berlin.
The S/S25 show by Marie Lueder was like a modern magical transformation from the beginning. Guests gathered in a circle to watch a vaping magician in casual hooded clothing put on a mesmerizing performance, filling the Tempodrom venue with a smoky haze. The collection featured colors inspired by fire, ash, wood, and greenery, showcasing unique twists on traditional denim and jersey pieces, elegant draped dresses, and new versions of her signature ribbing techniques. Lueder explained to AnOther magazine that she wanted to create garments that care for and support people, using clothing as a way to express herself and connect with others in a tactile and intimate way.
Born and raised in the rural area of Sauerland in Germany, designer Mario Keine is very familiar with the unique customs and outfits of the region. One of these traditions is Schützenfest, a festival where members of local shooting groups compete to shoot down a wooden bird on a pole and crown a marksman's king. Despite its eccentricities, Keine noticed how exclusionary the festival was towards women and marginalized communities. In his latest collection for Spring/Summer 2025, Keine reimagined the festival's rituals through a queer perspective, blending masculine and feminine elements with soft colors and decorative designs. Among the loud and bold fashion seen at other events in Berlin, Keine's presentation stood out as fresh and welcoming. Despite starting his brand in 2021, Keine is already making a name for himself as a rising talent in the fashion industry.
