I live in Barcelona – here are my favourite neighbourhoods to escape the crowds
Mass tourism is a hot topic right now. Airlines are predicting that they will carry 4.7 billion passengers by 2024, surpassing the numbers from before the Covid-19 pandemic. Barcelona is one of the places where the large number of tourists is causing frustration among locals. This summer, the beloved Catalan city has seen protesters using water guns on tourists, and the mayor, Jaume Collboni, has promised to completely ban short-term holiday rentals by 2028.
Collboni has proposed additional actions to address the issue of too many people in one area, such as increasing the tourist tax for cruise passengers who stay in the city for less than 12 hours (currently set at €7/£6). Barcelona is the busiest cruise port in Europe, with approximately 3.1 million passengers visiting each year. A lot of cruise tourists only come for a short time and tend to stay in Ciutat Vella, the oldest neighborhood. However, there are many other interesting places to explore beyond this popular tourist destination.
The town consists of various neighborhoods called barrios, each with its own unique characteristics. Those who explore these areas will find less people and a more genuine experience of life in this lively city. Here are five to check out.
Great for enjoying the beach, this area in the northeast of the city is home to some of the best sandy stretches. Throughout the year, the clean and not too crowded Platja Bogatell and Platja Mar Bella are buzzing with activity, from paddle boarding and swimming in the sea to volleyball, yoga, and sunbathing on the shore. Once an industrial zone, Poblenou has undergone a transformation in recent times and is now a vibrant center for art galleries, art schools, and shared workspaces, as well as some fantastic new dining and drinking establishments.
Suggestions: Explore the top design museum in the city, Disseny Hub, and visit the large, historical flea market at Encants.
Where to grab a bite and a drink: Visit Little Fern for a delicious brunch (try the kimchi pancakes), Masa Vins for unique natural wine and small plates, and Can Fisher for a tasty Sunday lunch paella.
Accommodation Recommendation: Hostal Poblenou is a delightful place to stay with its yellow exterior and terrace covered by a roof. Located only a five-minute walk from the beach, the price for a double room starts at £121 per night.
Gracia has many streets where people can walk without worrying about cars, and there are also many squares with trees to provide shade. It feels like a separate part of Barcelona because of this. Gracia is in the northern part of the city, near the hill that goes up to Park Güell. There's also a natural park, Collserola, nearby, so there are plenty of green spaces to enjoy.
What to see: Casa Vicens, Gaudí's first significant work and the least frequented of his main projects, is a must-visit. While La Boqueria market near the main Rambla street is a favorite among tourists, every neighborhood has its own indoor market. Take a stroll through Mercat de Llibertat, Gracia's food market established in 1883, and enjoy a glass of wine and a snack at Hermós' bar.
Where to dine and drink: Start your day with breakfast pastries from Coush Armo, try vermouth at La Vermu, and savor unique tapas at Fonda Pepa.
Accommodation recommendation: Casa Gracia is not your typical hostel. It is located in a modern townhouse with elegant decorations and provides complimentary amenities such as yoga classes and guided walking tours. Prices start at £63 per night for a double room.
Located right next to the Collserola Natural Park, a massive 8,000-hectare protected area, this residential area in Barcelona is known for its peaceful atmosphere. The neighborhood is filled with beautiful Modernista houses, a style similar to Art Nouveau. There are plenty of upscale restaurants, charming boutiques, bakeries, and gourmet delis to explore in this elegant part of the city.
Things to do: Gaudi's Torre Bellesguard, a stunning neo-Gothic mansion, is located away from the usual tourist spots but definitely deserves a visit. The Muñoz Ramonet Gardens are perfect for a relaxing afternoon walk.
Where to dine and have some drinks: Start your day with a delicious breakfast and fantastic coffee at Flying Monkey, visit the cozy Bar Tomás for their famous patatas bravas, or indulge in upscale tapas at Colmado Wilmot.
Where to stay: Primero Primera is a boutique hotel with a beautiful garden full of bougainvillea and a pool in the shape of a kidney. It is a peaceful retreat with 30 beds available for guests. Prices for a double room start at £187 per night.
The hillside community situated at the base of Montjuic park has a small-town atmosphere, even though it is located fairly close to the city center. This area is known for its numerous trendy restaurants and bars that are constantly popping up. In addition, Carrer de Blai, a bustling street running through the neighborhood, is a popular destination for hopping between tapas and pintxo bars.
Things to see and do: Montjuic offers several attractions that are worth visiting. You can check out the Fundació Joan Miró, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, and the beautiful botanical garden (please note that it is closed to the public until 31 August). Additionally, you can explore the Greek theatre and the castle on the top of the hill.
Best places to eat and drink: Quimet and Quimet is a traditional tapas bar, while new restaurant Denassus offers a modern take. For some delicious pasta in a peaceful outdoor setting, check out Venetian restaurant Xemei.
Accommodation recommendation: Hotel Brummell is located on a serene street and offers a unique boutique experience with a tropical theme and a small rooftop swimming pool. Prices for a double room start at £157 per night.
Sants is most famous for being the home of Barcelona's primary train station. However, many visitors overlook the vibrant neighborhood that encompasses it. This area boasts bustling plazas and top-notch dining spots that are worthy of a more extensive exploration.
What to see: Checking out the food market El Mercado de Sants and strolling through the gardens Los Jardines de la Rambla de Sants can be a fun way to spend your time.
Where to dine and drink: If you're looking for authentic tapas, give Bodega Bartoli a try (make sure to try the classic tortilla) and check out Vermut i a la Gàbia for the fried aubergine with honey and cheese, as well as the pear croquettes. If you're in the mood for a more modern dining experience, NEØ is a fantastic choice for coffee and brunch.
Accommodation Recommendation: The Barcelona hotel owned by Nobu features stylish, understated rooms and boasts the highest rooftop terrace in the city, offering breathtaking views. Prices for a double room start at £172 per night.
Check out Turisme de Barcelona and Visit Barcelona for additional information.