Trieste: The forgotten Italian city on its way back to greatness

Trieste, once a forgotten destination, has now regained popularity among tourists. Due to restrictions, cruise ships that cannot dock in Venice are now finding their way to Trieste instead.

At the top of Mount Giusto, surrounded by the remains of the ancient Roman forum, looking out over the expansive harbor and the stunning Adriatic Sea in the distance, it becomes clear why Trieste was once a major port in the world. But what led to its eventual obscurity?

Trieste has been known for many years as Europe's primary entrance to the Mediterranean Sea and has become a well-liked spot to visit. However, when I bring up Trieste in conversation with people from Britain, they often look puzzled and ask, "Trieste? Where is that?"

The situation appears to be shifting. The last time I visited this place, five years ago, Trieste seemed like a quiet and not very important place. But now, large cruise ships, forced to leave Venice due to restrictions, are stopping here instead. After many years of being overlooked, this historic city, which has faced conflicts in the past, is once again attracting tourists.

Trieste became forgotten because it found itself on the losing side in both World Wars. Prior to World War I, it was the main seaport for the Austrian empire. After Austria's defeat in the war, Trieste became part of Italy, but the Italians did not see much value in it.

After World War II, Tito's communist forces took control of the region, aiming to incorporate it into Yugoslavia. However, the western allies, including the UK and the USA, opposed this idea. As a result, the area was left in a state of uncertainty, under the rule of the UK and USA, as they deliberated on its future.

At last, in 1954, Trieste was given back to Italy without its surrounding Istrian area, which joined Yugoslavia. Throughout the Cold War, it was isolated at the edge of a closed-off road, surrounded by the division of the Iron Curtain. When I first visited here 40 years ago, on my journey to Yugoslavia, it appeared to be a city that had fallen behind in time.

So much has changed. Yugoslavia no longer exists, and Trieste is now a bustling meeting point rather than a dead end. Slovenia, its new neighbor, is now a member of Nato and the EU. Tourists are filling the streets, and the conversations in its bars and cafes are multilingual, just like they were in the peak of its Edwardian era, when British travelers came here by train to catch ships heading towards the Far East.

Lots of new travelers come to Trieste on cruise ships and only stay for a short visit before moving on to the next destination. But if you extend your stay, you can uncover a different experience in Trieste - a mysterious town located at the meeting point of different cultures, still carrying the legacy of its Habsburg past, and still maintaining its unique identity.

During my last trip, I lodged at the Savoia Excelsior Palace, a prestigious hotel constructed before World War I. Situated by the waterfront, this historic and lavish hotel gave off more of a corporate vibe to me. Looking to relax and explore the countryside, I opted to stay at Tivoli Portopiccolo this time around. This coastal resort is located in Sistiana, just 12 miles to the west of Trieste.

Portopiccolo is a contemporary establishment, nestled into a private cove with a stylish beach club and a marina brimming with luxurious motor yachts. It brought to mind the television series, The White Lotus. It is extremely cozy and peaceful, but it gives off a sense of isolation from everyday life. Nevertheless, Sistiana is located nearby, a bustling harbor filled with fishing boats and small boats, as well as a stretch of pebble beach lined with quaint seaside stalls offering affordable and delightful food and beverages.

One of the most enjoyable ways to arrive in the city is by boat, especially in the summer when a ferry from Sistiana can bring you directly to the center of town. The tickets are affordable and the journey itself is quite pleasant. The coastline is lined with tall limestone cliffs covered in dense, dark forest, creating a striking sight - especially when viewed from the water. As you approach Trieste, the cliffs gradually give way to a wide bay lined with docks and warehouses. This is where your adventure in Trieste begins.

More than 100 years after the Austrians left and Trieste joined Italy, the city still maintains a strong Germanic influence. The food is hearty, the buildings are sturdy, and the cafes have a Germanic feel. The residents of Trieste are proud of their diverse background, and while Italian is the main language, everyone I talked to emphasized their multicultural heritage.

There are people who want to separate from the current government. A sign saying "Free Territory of Trieste" is displayed on the Piazza della Borsa in Trieste, which is a busy street. Another sign says "USA & UK come back!" I only met one person who strongly believes in separation, and they are too young to remember when their city was under American and British control but still long for that time.

This unique sense of belonging to a specific area brings even more fascination to this sophisticated and captivating city. It is like a small version of a big city - vibrant and charming, but still easy to explore by walking (with a population of around 200,000, similar to a century ago when the Austrians left). The old town's narrow streets and the city center's wide avenues make it a delightful place to stroll around, bustling with activity and intriguing people.

Trieste doesn't have any famous landmarks or must-see places. Its charm is more subtle and understated. Jan Morris, a travel writer, beautifully described its mysterious atmosphere in her reflective book, Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere. James Joyce, who lived here for ten years, appreciated its quiet allure.

The Miramare is a beautiful castle in Trieste that reflects the city's moody atmosphere. It was constructed by Maximilian, the younger brother of the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. However, Maximilian did not spend much time there as he was sent to Mexico to become the Emperor, only to be overthrown and executed by firing squad. The castle is now a museum, showcasing the Habsburg family's ambition and arrogance. Legend has it that it is unlucky to stay overnight at Miramare, as many of its past residents have met tragic fates.

I ended up back at Mount Giusto, overlooking the city. While most visitors hike up to see the castle and cathedral, I was there to visit the tomb of Johann Joachim Winckelmann (1717-1768), known as the pioneer of modern archaeology. Although Winckelmann was not originally from Trieste and was only passing through to catch a boat to Rome, he formed a friendship with a young man named Francesco Arcangeli who, mysteriously, ended up murdering him. Winckelmann was laid to rest in the nearby cathedral, while Arcangeli met his gruesome fate in the city square below.

This eerie tale highlights why Trieste holds a special place in my heart. Every corner you turn in this mysterious city reveals a new layer of history - some documented, much of it shrouded in mystery. As I strolled towards the harbor, passing by the ancient Roman amphitheater, I couldn't help but think of a passage from Jan Morris' book, Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere: "Here, more than anywhere else, memories of times gone by, missed opportunities, and lost friends come flooding back." And as the ferry whisked me away into the evening, and Trieste faded into the horizon, her words lingered in my mind.

I stayed at Tivoli Portopiccolo Sistiana (www.tivolihotels.com) as a guest. The cost for a double room starts at €300 per night and includes breakfast. Guests also have access to the stylish beach club. The design of the hotel is more international than traditional Italian. The resort is completely pedestrian-friendly, with a large underground parking garage available. There are multiple dining options within the hotel and nearby development, but the best meal I had was at the beach club restaurant. This is a great destination for those seeking privacy or traveling with kids.

Exploring The Countryside

There are some great day trips near Sistiana, especially the Rilke trail that takes you from Sistiana to the Castello di Duino, a medieval castle where the famous poet Rainer Maria Rilke wrote his Duino Elegies. The hiking trail along the cliffs offers breathtaking views of the Gulf of Trieste and is definitely worth exploring.

If you prefer to relax and eat delicious food, visit Bajta Salež, a small family-owned restaurant and shop located between Sistiana and Trieste. They produce their own wine and prepare their own cured ham. The family has a strong Slovenian heritage. This spot is well-liked by locals as well as tourists. Enjoy your meal outdoors in the gardens when the weather is nice.

Town Activities

In Trieste, there are many amazing museums located in beautiful buildings. In addition to the grand Castello di Miramare, which is surrounded by beautiful gardens, and the Winckelmann Museum, filled with ancient artifacts, be sure to visit the Museo Revoltella. This museum is located in a lavish mansion once owned by a wealthy merchant and now showcases Trieste's modern art collection.

Best Places To Dine And Unwind

Trieste, a major port in Europe with strong trade connections to South America, has always been famous for its coffee culture. Similar to the traditional Viennese coffee houses, cafes in Trieste are like a cozy living room, a stark contrast to popular chain cafes like Starbucks. While Caffè San Marco and Caffè degli Specchi are well-known for their history and opulence, my personal favorite is Caffè Torinese, a charming and old-fashioned spot where you can enjoy a indulgent cream cake, savor an espresso at the counter, or purchase coffee beans to-go.

Looking for a casual but delicious meal? Check out Buffet da Pepi, a popular spot that has been around since 1897. The atmosphere is classic, the staff is friendly, and the menu is focused on meat dishes. After your meal, don't forget to stop by Gelateria Zampolli for some tasty gelato. It's a great way to end your meal on a sweet note.

The most recommended way to travel from Sistiana to Trieste (and other beach resorts) is by taking a Delfino Verde ferry (www.delfinoverde.it). The round-trip fare is €12. The ferry ride lasts 80 minutes both ways and is very enjoyable. For information on other public transportation choices in Trieste (including walking routes in the city), check out www.triestemetro.eu.

Ryanair offers flights from London Stansted and Dublin to Trieste. To learn more about Trieste and the surrounding area, check out websites like www.discover-trieste.it or www.turismofvg.it.