Gross, grisly The Substance loses its way, but Demi Moore is sensational – review
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Anger is the defining element in French filmmaker Coralie Fargeat's body of work. It permeates and overwhelms everything. It gnaws at our thoughts and speech. In her first film, 2017's aptly named thriller Revenge, and now in The Substance, her exploration of body horror focusing on women and aging, the films are less about dialogue and more about sensations – raw emotions unleashed and left to linger vividly on the screen.
The story doesn't come together perfectly, but it packs a punch. It feels like a parable set in a wild Eighties dream filled with flashy leotards, big hairstyles, and overindulgence. A bright orange corridor seems to extend endlessly, reminiscent of a Stanley Kubrick film, while the eerie smiles evoke the style of David Lynch. Fargeat's camera stays uncomfortably close, making it feel like if anyone gets too animated in their speech, they might spray us with spit.
Demi Moore, who used to be the highest-paid actress globally, portrays Elisabeth Sparkle, a former star who is unceremoniously let go from her aerobics show by a smirking executive named Harvey, played by a delightfully nasty Dennis Quaid. Elisabeth is offered a final chance to reclaim her former glory: "The Substance," a bright green liquid from the 90s that, when injected, triggers the body to push out a younger, more attractive version of herself.
The experience is terrifying. Each sound feels overwhelming, like a wave crashing down. However, it results in the emergence of Sue (Margaret Qualley), who is capable of taking over Elisabeth's former position as the aerobics instructor. She only has to follow one important rule: after a week of showcasing her flawless moves for the viewers, she has to revert her mind back to Elisabeth. This allows their bodies to rest and keep things balanced. There are no exceptions to this rule.
Fargeat's Revenge reinterprets a film tradition typically dominated by men, focusing on women who seek revenge against their aggressors, and infuses it with a distinctly feminine viewpoint. She employs a similar approach in this work, particularly within the "hagsploitation" genre, which features narratives about older women who descend into madness due to their lost youth and attractiveness, a theme that gained traction with the 1962 film What Ever Happened to Baby Jane? Moore's intense and emotionally charged performance evokes elements reminiscent of Bette Davis and Joan Crawford, combining strength with a sense of bitterness.
However, "hagsploitation" usually focuses on the disdain for another woman's aging figure. In contrast, The Substance explores a woman's aversion to her own body, confronting the monster she sees in the mirror. At its most impactful, it strikes the heart like a heavy blow. No one tells Elisabeth that she lacks beauty; in fact, she is quite the opposite. Yet, as time goes by, she notices that men seem increasingly indifferent to her existence. When she blows a kiss to the camera, it has become more challenging for her to do so with the same playful, feminine charm as Sue—Qualley portrays this moment with a haunting emptiness.
It's a heartbreaking story of self-loathing, and Fargeat vividly captures this struggle in a powerful scene where Elisabeth, growing more desperate, constantly returns to the mirror. She keeps reapplying lipstick and fiddling with her clothes, yet nothing seems to bring her any comfort. She finds herself unable to step outside. This whole situation feels strikingly relatable.
However, it's challenging to reconcile these visuals with what the director does afterward, as the latter part of The Substance transforms into an extravagant, blood-soaked tribute to cringeworthy cult favorites like Brian Yuzna’s 1989 horror film Society. It turns the human form into a spectacle for all to see, almost urging the audience to stare at what was previously depicted as deeply personal and hidden revulsion. Nonetheless, having a creator like Fargeat in the film industry is a definite advantage. At times, art merely requires an uninhibited, primal outcry.
Directed by Coralie Fargeat, this film features performances by Demi Moore, Margaret Qualley, and Dennis Quaid. It has a rating of 18 and a runtime of 140 minutes.
"The Substance" will be hitting theaters starting September 20th.
