Why All Lab-Grown Diamonds Are Not Created Equal.

Picture two sparkling, circular diamonds positioned next to each other. They both weigh 1 carat and have the same F hue and VS2 lucidity. However, one has been extracted from nature, while the other was artificially grown in a laboratory.

Many merchants have learned that despite coming from different sources, all diamonds are the same in terms of their chemical makeup, light reflection, and physical properties. This is the information they pass on to their customers.

Lindsay Reinsmith, who holds the positions of Chief Operating Officer and Sales Director at Ada Diamonds - a San Francisco headquartered brand that produces direct-to-consumer lab-grown diamonds, has explained that people involved in the trade have been saying for a long time that there is no way to differentiate between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

Jason Payne, the Ada Diamonds CEO, has noted an increase in oversimplified assertions that their product is the same as others. However, he assures that this is not accurate.

The differences in structure and appearance between artificially grown diamonds and naturally occurring ones, as well as those between various lab-grown diamonds, extend far beyond the standard 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, and carat weight), and are frequently noticeable without any special equipment. This was the main message conveyed during a one-hour talk given by Reinsmith and Payne as part of the GIA's monthly guest speaker program at their headquarters in Carlsbad, California on March 1st.

Reinsmith shares with JCK that they spend their days examining lab-created diamonds. 2019 was a significant year for them as they observed a surge in the amount of materials available. As they evaluated diamonds to add to their inventory, they began to notice a wider range of variations beyond the typical 4Cs. Additionally, they engaged in discussions with those who cultivate these diamonds.

Reinsmith and Payne noticed that many of the diamonds they were observing were produced in a laboratory using chemical vapor deposition (CVD). These diamonds had a brown or gray tint, as well as signs of tension and striation, which gave them a cloudy or streaky appearance.

Reinsmith and Payne have observed that diamonds produced using high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) presses exhibit indications of low-quality growth. These indications include diamonds with a bluish or grayish hue, as well as those that have phosphoresced.

The pair clarified that these imperfections in the crystals were purposely created during the manufacturing process to quicken the rate at which the final product would be available for purchase, even if it meant sacrificing its overall quality.

At first, those who grew lab diamonds wanted to make crystals that were extremely pure and could match the quality of some of the finest natural diamonds, according to Reinsmith's presentation. However, in recent times, the demand for lab diamonds has increased rapidly, attracting many newcomers who lack proper technology and expertise. These players are aspiring to become successful in the industry, although they are not suited to growing diamonds.

She mentioned that things got worse because of Covid. Diamond mining stopped operating for a longer time than diamond growing. To cut the diamonds, cutters required rough diamonds, which has led to a market that pushes for producing as much and quickly as possible at the lowest cost.

According to Reinsmith, farmers worldwide were looking to boost their production but didn't have enough money to invest in their equipment. Therefore, they opted for quicker and easier methods.

She stated that by hastening the growth process, utilizing inexpensive resources repeatedly, and implementing cover materials, one can quicken their development cycle. However, she also noted that lab-grown products have become more rapid and cost-effective to manufacture but they haven't necessarily improved in quality.

According to Payne, issues often arise from the very beginning - the seeds. He emphasized that you cannot expect a flawless seed, as the quality of the seed directly affects the quality of the end result. The more flaws in the seed, the less clear the final product.

"He mentioned that seeds lose their quality with every use. Hence, during every usage of seed, and each start-stop cycle of the CVD reactor, the seed's quality degrades. When you reuse them, their quality worsens even further. The primary difficulty for CVD farmers is to obtain high-quality seeds."

These market dynamics have two key outcomes. Firstly, there is an oversupply of lab-created materials, mainly in the 2 to 3 carat range. Secondly, the market is dividing into two segments. One segment is occupied by luxury producers who grow their diamonds slowly and charge a high price. The other segment is made up of budget producers who prioritize producing rapidly and affordably.

Reinsmith and Payne are predicting that there will be more consolidation in the industry due to low-quality growers shutting down. There may also be a potential risk of a consumer confidence crisis that could negatively impact the entirety of the lab-grown diamond trade.

According to Reinsmith, it is crucial to be more upfront with the public when it comes to lab-grown diamonds. It is misleading to describe them as being completely identical to natural diamonds and only distinguishable with specialized equipment. If you are a jeweler who has recently added lab-grown diamonds to your offerings, you should take responsibility for educating yourself about their quality features, beyond the typical 4Cs. Your reputation as a trustworthy business owner is at stake, and your customers deserve to be informed.

"And refrain from telling falsehoods as the diamonds speak for themselves," she further said.

Above are four laboratory-grown diamonds with a G color grade created through the use of CVD technology (credit to Ada Diamonds for the images).

Stay connected with JCK by following us on our social media platforms! Our Instagram handle is @jckmagazine, our Twitter handle is @jckmagazine, and our Facebook page is @jckmagazine. By following our pages, you'll stay up-to-date on the latest news, trends, and stories in the jewelry industry. Join our social media community today!