I've read Rivals 40 times – this Cotswolds town is the perfect filming location

"Anyone who claimed that country living is dull must not have been surrounded by the right crowd," is the catchy tagline for Disney+'s fresh adaptation of Jilly Cooper's sensational "bonkbuster" Rivals. If there's a place that can capture the essence of elite rural life, 80s glitz, and the juicy drama typical of a Cooper story, it’s Tetbury in the picturesque Cotswolds.

Drawing from her experiences in Gloucestershire during the 70s and 80s, a time when it felt like “everyone in the country was involved,” Jilly Cooper penned a series of novels including Riders, Rivals, and Polo, among others, all set in the imaginary land of Rutshire. Collectively known as the Rutshire Chronicles, Cooper's fictional universe provides an entertaining exploration of the steamy lives of rural society, with a focus on showjumping, flat racing, polo, the art world, and the television industry.

As someone who grew up in the 1980s, I have been a dedicated admirer of her books for years, especially "Rivals," which explores the competitive landscape of television franchises during that era. This engaging and steamy story set in the picturesque Cotswolds highlights what Jilly describes as a place where “the morals are as low as the fences are high.” I’ve become enthralled by the lives of the main characters: Rupert Campbell-Black, a Conservative MP, Olympic showjumper, and racehorse trainer; Lord Tony Baddingham, the head of Corinium Television; and Declan O'Hara, a television host. I must have read "Rivals" nearly 40 times, and I feel as though I know Cotchester as if I had grown up there.

When I learned about the upcoming Disney+ adaptation, I couldn't resist checking it out before its release on October 18. The talented cast includes David Tennant playing Baddingham, Aidan Turner as O’Hara, Danny Dyer as Freddie Jones, a self-made tech billionaire, and Katherine Parkinson as Lizzie Vereker, a novelist who specializes in romance.

Filled with charming honey-colored towns, picturesque villages, sprawling stud farms, and historic Elizabethan mansions, it's clear why Dame Jilly chose this part of Gloucestershire as the setting for her novels. Serving as the fictional town of Cotchester, home to Corinium Television, Tetbury is the second-largest town in the Cotswolds, boasting a population of about 6,500. Until recently, it has primarily been recognized for its royal links, with King Charles and Queen Camilla residing just a short six-minute drive away at Highgrove, and Princess Anne living 12 minutes away at Gatcombe Park.

It's a lovely sunny day in Tetbury, with the streets adorned by the iconic Cotswold stone cottages featuring their traditional pale-green doors and vibrant hanging flower baskets. On this Friday morning, the neighborhood hair salons, farm shops, and bookstores are buzzing with activity. I stop by the Cotswold Coffee Bar on Church Street to enjoy a flat white and a warm teacake alongside the locals.

At the center of the town is the 17th-century Market House, which has a soft custard hue. Every Wednesday, the town hosts its weekly markets there, featuring around twenty stalls that mainly offer local goods. Saturdays bring a different vibe, with the opportunity to find plants, assorted knickknacks, vintage books, and jewelry. In addition, various street vendors set up shop there throughout the week; for instance, today’s vendor was selling items made from sheepskin.

Branching out from this, Tetbury features spacious streets and charming cobbled paths lined with quaint tearooms, antique shops, and upscale delis such as Martin and Malthouse. This local favorite offers a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as fine wines and olive oils sourced from their family farm in Greece. I believe that Lola & Co Tapas Bar and Deli on Long Street could pose a serious challenge to Bas Baddingham's Bar Sinister in Rivals.

You’ll also find an ancient English pub known as the Snooty Fox, a shop featuring Highgrove goodies with HRH branding, and, quite impressively, a women’s clothing store named Fillys that offers trendy outfits. The scene is filled with cheerful, outdoorsy men in Barbour jackets, strong women in headscarves and bold jewelry, and playful dogs with curly tails. It really reminds me of Cotchester; I almost expect to see Rupert Campbell-Black stumbling out of the Cotchester Arms, accompanied by a glamorous blonde.

Matthew Nichol, who works at the Tetbury Visitor Information Centre, shares his enthusiasm for the show and observed a lot of the filming that took place during the summer.

“The cast and crew of The Rivals were in town for the first week of August. During that time, our Tetbury signs were swapped out for Cotchester ones, and many shops on Long Street dressed up their storefronts to resemble 1980s aesthetics,” he explains.

As Nichol notes, the town was also graced by some impressive vintage cars. Berkeley House, situated across from The Chipping car park, stood in for Hamilton Terrace, the residence of Cameron Cook. Meanwhile, St Mary’s Church was transformed into St Agnes and St Isaac Cotchester for a wedding scene. Additional filming locations included Bristol, Castlewood in Clevedon, Somerset, and Corsham in Wiltshire.

Reports indicate that Jilly Cooper has been actively involved in the production. Residing in Bisley, just a 20-minute drive away, she even had the honor of switching on the Christmas lights in Tetbury last year. Although Jilly is a beloved figure in the Cotswolds, the majority of traffic to Tetbury stems from Highgrove, which draws approximately 40,000 visitors annually. However, this situation might take a turn starting Friday.

"Although we're not quite a destination for Jilly Cooper enthusiasts just yet, we at the Tourist Information Centre are optimistic that there will be some interest next year," Nichol remarks. "Chavenage House attracts a lot of Poldark fans, so we’re hoping that Rivals will have a similar appeal."

Local resident Jen Le Marinel isn't a fan of Jilly Cooper. "There were a few difficulties in town on the days they were filming—especially if you had to get somewhere fast—but I found the excitement quite enjoyable," shares the coach and trainer from Tetbury.

"I'm curious to see how Tetbury has been adapted for the 80s when it appears on the big screen," she continues.

Natalie York, the owner of The Royal Oak pub, expresses her hope that this will attract greater interest in Tetbury, a town that isn't as famous as the bustling traditional Cotswold destinations like Bourton-on-the-Water and Stow-on-the-Wold.

"I believe that having Rivals being shot in this town is definitely a good thing."

I'm currently at the Hare & Hounds, a countryside hotel located in Westonbirt, right on the edge of Tetbury. This is where the cast and crew took residence while filming this summer. The hotel, constructed in 1860 from light Cotswold stone, features an impressive neo-Renaissance main building along with chic coachhouse accommodations and lovely wooded grounds that perfectly match the vibe of the Cooperverse. Like many places in the Cotswolds, it welcomes dogs. My furry companion, Miss Babs, especially loves frolicking through Silk Wood in the stunning Westonbirt Arboretum nearby.

Just outside of Tetbury lies Chavenage House, an expansive Elizabethan estate that serves as the fictional Penscombe, home to Rupert Campbell-Black (Poldark enthusiasts might recognize it as Trenwith). The estate belongs to Caroline Lowsley-Williams, a passionate admirer of Cooper's work, who is rumored to have assisted location scouts by recommending nearby houses for various characters. Although it’s currently not open to the public, I took a chance and peeked through the gates, hoping to catch a sight of Rupert playing tennis in the nude.

If you're looking for a passionate getaway in a cozy wooden inn, an intimate escape at a charming boutique hotel, or a romantic weekend exploring a countryside estate, the Cotswolds is the ideal destination to experience Jilly's enticing and delightfully risqué world.

Reaching the destinationThe closest train station is Kemble, located seven miles from Tetbury.

Accommodations at The Hare & Hounds feature traditional double rooms with breakfast available, beginning at £125 per night. You can find more details at cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk.