Lee Miller: Everything you need to know ahead of Kate Winslet's new film, Lee
“The term ‘muse’ is used too often and it really frustrates me,” Kate Winslet expresses in the introduction to *Lee Miller: Photographs*, a new compilation of 100 images showcasing the life and work of the model-turned-photographer-turned-war-correspondent. “In my opinion, she was a powerful presence, far beyond just being an object of fascination for the well-known men linked to her.”
Miller's life is a story that Winslet is very familiar with, as it took her eight years to bring "Lee," the biopic about Miller, to fruition. Winslet, who both stars in and produced the film, has referred to this journey as 'an incredible struggle.' This included not only the challenge of securing funding—at one point, she even covered two weeks’ salaries for the crew out of her own pocket— but also the effort to find a female director who would focus on Miller’s true story rather than her numerous famous friends and romantic relationships.
Drawing from the 1985 memoir The Lives of Lee Miller by her son Antony Penrose, which he penned in the years after her passing, Lee highlights Miller's experience as a photojournalist for Vogue during World War II. This was a period when women were seldom recognized for accessing combat areas, and fashion publications were not typically associated with reporting on such events.
"I have indulged in the luxuries, so now I must confront the consequences," Miller wrote in a letter to her family back in America while she experienced the initial day of the Blitz during one of her well-known trips to London. The beginning of the film shows Miller, with a camera in her hands, as she follows the Allied forces advancing through Europe. "You see a middle-aged woman willingly placing herself amidst the chaos of war – that’s exactly what Lee Miller did," says director Ellen Kuras.
Miller started out as a fashion model in 1927 on the streets of New York. Her career took off when she had a lucky meeting with Condé Nast, the publisher of Vogue, who saved her from being hit by a car. At just 19 years old, Miller fainted in his embrace, and a few weeks later, her stunning image graced the cover of the American edition of the magazine, perfectly embodying the spirit of Jazz Age New York.
Miller became a prominent figure in the fashion industry, modeling for well-known fashion labels and commercial brands as one of the original supermodels. However, her career took a turn when Kotex used one of her photos for a sanitary towel advertisement without her consent, leading to a negative association that caused her to be 'canceled' almost instantly. Rather than being discouraged, Miller viewed this as an opportunity to launch a new chapter in her life in Paris. She sought out the surrealist photographer Man Ray and became his apprentice. Her understanding of Vogue's aesthetic helped him adapt his work for the American audience, while his mentorship laid the groundwork for her own photographic endeavors, leading to the establishment of Lee Miller Studios, Inc.
However, it was her camera that she chose to wield during times of conflict, which resulted in some of her most striking photographs. Kate Winslet points out that many of Miller's wartime images are not what one might anticipate. Kuras concurs, stating, "People typically expect images of battle." Yet, Miller's photographs often focused on the individuals involved. She aimed to reveal aspects of the war that were usually overlooked.
Lee Miller: A Photographic Journey By Thames & Hudson
Even though she claimed she would "prefer to take a photo than be photographed," one of Miller's most iconic images was captured when she and photographer David E. Scherman sneaked into Hitler's apartment in Munich. She posed for a nude photograph in his bathtub. At that time, she was unaware of his death, but her combat boots took center stage in the photo, their dirt smudged onto what Winslet describes as "the dictator's ridiculous little bath mat."
"We get a clear picture of her true self—courageous, determined, and genuine," remarks Winslet as she reflects from her film set. She shares that just writing the introduction for the book leaves her feeling quite "overwhelmed."
"There are countless tales of girls who experienced various events," she remarks. "Lee Miller was a woman who took charge and created her own destiny. I honestly admit that I admire her greatly."
"Lee" will be showing in theaters starting September 13. The book "Lee Miller: Photographs" published by Thames & Hudson is available now.
This piece was first published in Red magazine.
