Deserted beaches, wild rivers and seaside chill: four days walking in NSW’s largest coastal park

The small village of Brooms Head in northern New South Wales is mainly just a headland, flanked by a line of Norfolk Island pines and a large caravan park that divides the main road from the beach. It's the type of place that has just one store, where the most popular items include fishing bait, assorted candies, and frozen treats.

During a day trip from Angourie, our family enjoyed a relaxing time at the beach, lounging in the sun while indulging in Cornettos. Suddenly, I noticed four men strolling by, each equipped with bulky backpacks that had wet swimsuits hanging from them. I decided to follow them.

"Excuse me," I inquired of one. "Can you tell me where you're headed?"

"To Red Rock," he said, gesturing towards a rocky outcrop that could be seen faintly in the southern distance. They were on the second day of their four-day journey along the 65km Yuraygir coastal trail, stopping at campsites as they traveled.

In 2020, I came up with a new idea. I realized that one day, my children—who were then 5, 8, and 11 years old—would be ready for real adventures. I thought this would be the perfect place to kick things off when that time came.

That’s how my twin sister Laura, our five children ranging from 9 to 15 years old, and I found ourselves heading out into a strong headwind from Angourie Point in July 2024. Huge waves were crashing at the well-known surf spot, but we chose to head south, avoiding the group of surfers in their wetsuits.

During the winter break from school, we only encountered four other hikers over the course of the next four days.

We quickly found our groove, chatting and strolling along diverse landscapes. We walked for kilometers on spacious, empty beaches, which looked dramatic under heavy clouds, with the sand firm from recent rains. Then we ventured through the coastal heath, where pandanus palms dropped glossy leaves amid the winding tea tree paths. The headlands offered sweeping views of the sandy shores and the triangular shape of Clarence Peak in the distance, while quiet clearings concealed simple campsites, often occupied by large kangaroos.

After traveling 13 kilometers, we arrived at the Lake Arragan campsite, which featured a mix of tents and vehicles that could be reached by road. During the summer, the lake, tinted by tea trees, comes alive with children, canoes, and fishing activities. However, the only soul braving the windy conditions at the beach was a kitesurfer.

After walking five kilometers along the sandy beach, we finally arrived at the Brooms Head general store, with our newly refurbished three-bedroom flat situated above. Armed with keys, a bottle of wine, and some groceries for dinner, we headed upstairs to enjoy hot showers, drinks on the balcony with a view of the beach, followed by a meal, some card games, and cozy beds for a good night's sleep.

Yuraygir boasts the most untamed shoreline between Sydney and Brisbane, featuring 65 kilometers of stunning beaches situated on land historically belonging to the Yaegl and Gumbaynggirr peoples. Shielded from urbanization by mountain ranges and rivers, various sections suffered logging, sand mining, and grazing before it was designated as a national park in 1980, becoming New South Wales' largest coastal park.

Three small towns—Brooms Head, Minnie Water, and Wooli—are nicely positioned to provide food and accommodation, while nearby camping areas offer a more rugged experience. The village of Red Rock, which is also known as the site of a tragic massacre of the Gumbaynggirr people in 1841, marks the conclusion of this trail. For those looking to keep walking, Red Rock serves as the starting point for the Solitary Islands coastal walk, which stretches 60 kilometers southward to the town of Sawtell, close to Coffs Harbour.

It's an easy and adaptable experience, suited for both serious adventurers and casual hikers like us who prefer exploring nature without heavy loads and enjoy a bit of comfort. The mild weather allows for year-round hiking. During winter, we often trekked in T-shirts, only putting on puffer jackets and fleeces when we took breaks. In the summer, the challenge is finding enough time to swim without getting sunburned.

As we left Brooms Head, pelicans waved us goodbye while whales called to us from the expansive stretch of North Sandon Beach. It's permitted to drive on this beach and a few others in the area, which can be a bit surprising when a four-wheel-drive zooms by. However, the beach is so wide that there’s more than enough space to accommodate everyone.

The sand was broken up by the presence of the Sandon River, one of the cleanest rivers in New South Wales. It was deep and wide, which made us really appreciate that we had arranged a ride across. Geoff Harper, the manager of the Sandon River campground, was there to help us get over in his reliable flat-bottomed boat called the Bobsta, which featured a fierce-looking shark design. But before we set off, he had a little surprise for us.

Not long ago, he came across a loggerhead turtle that had washed ashore and contacted the Australia Seabird & Turtle Rescue in Ballina. “Lucky” rested in a small boat, patiently waiting for his examination while we admired him in awe. The following day, Geoff sent us a message revealing that the turtle truly lived up to his name; he was healthy and would soon be returned to the ocean.

As Geoff raced us over the river, he mentioned the types of sharks that come to scavenge the leftovers from fishing (like bull, lemon, and white pointer), which made us even more thankful we weren't in the water. When we asked how long it would take to reach Minnie Water, his estimate was right on the mark – two hours and 45 minutes – but he was the perfect person to answer. He grew up in this area and used to dash barefoot to Minnie Water to grab some icy poles, making that trip 63 times.

We continued our journey, passing through the small village of Sandon. If you looked closely, it felt as though we had stepped back into the 1920s. The front yards of the thirty-some homes, mostly made of fibro, were adorned with boats and buoys, which could only be accessed by the 12-kilometer stretch of beach leading to Minnie Water.

That evening at the Minnie Water holiday park, my husband arrived with wine, salad, and delicious Yamba prawns for our cabin. He stayed with us for the next couple of days as we strolled along the beaches and rocky shores, navigated two more rivers (taking a boat at Wooli and swimming across the Corindi River at the end of our hike), and spotted pelicans, oystercatchers, and large, striking white cuttlefish glimmering on the sand like something out of a sci-fi movie.

The region seems more isolated than it appears on the map, both in its geography and its vibe. Here, it’s still common to greet strangers with a smile and strike up a conversation. Everywhere you go, from people walking their dogs to the team at the quirky Minnie Water general store—where you can grab a coffee, a burger, a drink, handmade sweaters, secondhand surfboards, and more—everyone is friendly. The locals at the Wooli hotel motel, where we stayed for our third night, were just as welcoming. They offered us rides, shared helpful tips, and even kept us updated about sick turtles in the area.

The highlights of the trip were the long conversations, where we connected in so many different ways. We had the opportunity and freedom to discuss topics that usually get pushed aside, a process that was enhanced by being active, exploring the outdoors, and enjoying some chocolate. It showed us that we are truly prepared for meaningful family adventures at last.

You'll find a wide range of dining and lodging choices available. We stayed at the Brooms Head general store, which starts at $190 per night. Other options include the Minnie Water holiday park, with cabins starting at $105, and the Wooli hotel motel, where a single room goes for around $120. The first two places are supported by a general store, and the Wooli hotel motel features a restaurant that serves lunch and dinner.

Additional choices consist of the Brooms Head holiday park, with cabin rates starting at $89, the Minnie Water beach house, available from $336, and the Wooli River lodges, beginning at $160.

If you're looking to go camping, there are plenty of national parks to choose from, such as Lake Arragan, Illaroo, Boorkoom, and Pebbly Beach. Additionally, you can find holiday parks at Brooms Head and Minnie Water. You can choose different places to stay based on how fast you like to hike, your schedule, and whether you prefer a rugged experience or more amenities. All campsites in the national parks have restrooms, but only a few provide drinking water, so be sure to verify this before you head out.

You can either drive a car shuttle from Angourie and leave a car at Red Rock, or you can book a ride through local taxi services like Coffs Harbour Taxis (0400 113 699), Woolgoolga Taxis (02 6654 1273), Yamba and Maclean Taxi Services (02 6620 9215), or Grafton Taxis (02 6642 3622). Another option is Woopi Connect, which is a shared bus service available on demand, accommodating up to six passengers and operating in the area south of Red Rock. Keep in mind that public transportation options are limited and often involve multiple transfers.

Tour operators like Life’s an Adventure and Home Comforts Hiking provide guided hikes for exclusive groups.

If you need to arrange a crossing over the Sandon River, reach out to Geoff Harper at 0407 362 118. For the Wooli River, you can contact Wooli River Boat Hire at 0439 409 909 for crossing arrangements. Unfortunately, there isn’t a commercial option for crossing the Corindi River to Red Rock. Many people choose to swim across (only at low tide and at your own risk, so make sure to do your own research beforehand) or hope to find a friendly local with a boat nearby! If conditions aren’t safe, it's best to wrap up your walk at Wooli, as that is the final point with road access.

The walk was generally easy and seldom tedious. Certain parts did require attention, time, and consideration. For the latest information regarding the trail, including safety warnings about rough seas near rocky edges and updates on any track closures or baiting activities, be sure to check the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service website.

To access details on campgrounds, water availability, and local plants and animals, feel free to download this brochure.